On a recent trip to Bangkok to get my dengue vaccine (Qdenga, from Japan), I was delighted to find two of my favourite shops, which I lost when the mall they were in closed for renovation. And as a bonus, both of them are within walking distance of each other and the BTS!

Piklik, on the first floor of Ploenchit Centre on Sukhumvit Road sells what I can only describe as incredibly gorgeous, neo-Edwardian cotton or silk nightwear, overflowing with lace, ruffles, ribbons and embroidery.


https://www.piklik.net/women-s.html

They also have in the shop but not on the website, a selection of relatively plain but also gorgeous caftans in pleated Thai silk, which only need a bit of lace trim at sleeve-cuffs and neckline to pass for a tea-gown by Lucile.

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucy,_Lady_Duff-Gordon. )


GREEN COTTON, on the other hand, which I found on the ground floor of The Rich Walk (a shopping-centre attached to The Rich condo on Sukhumvit Soi 4), sells plain, very reasonably-priced, undyed cotton casual clothes of excellent quality, like light and largely unadorned cotton pyjamas, nightgowns, T-shirts, knickers, skirts and drawstring trousers, i.e. everything one would need for hot-climate informal wear. They also have really good, thick cotton socks, which I was glad to be able to stock up on in quantity, after buying one pair years ago on spec.

Both Ploenchit Centre and The Rich Walk are in between Ploenchit and Nana BTS stations, and as a bonus, the huge Siam Pharmacy is right next to Ploenchit BTS station, for all your medical needs. A terrifyingly large number of serious medicines are OTC in Thailand (most of them are manufactured there, which makes many generics particularly good value).

There is also a very good cat cafe on Sukhumvit soi 19 near the Asok BTS station, called Asok Pethouse Cat Cafe. Nice healthy rescue cats in a comfortable room to themselves with many cat-walks and sleeping places high up if they don't feel like socialising, a big window onto the street for constant amusement and a cat wheel for exercise. The cafe also has cats and kittens for adoption, and the cafe side has its own dedicated cat, who is basically the queen of the entire establishment.
I was in Bangkok for a few days not too long ago, and noticed some very nice art on the walls of Suvarnabhumi Airport as I slogged my weary way from the aircraft door to Arrivals. Suvarnabhumi was clearly designed to ensure that all passengers get in their 10,000 steps before being allowed to leave the terminal...

The train into town is good and connects directly to the BTS, so if your hotel is near a BTS station, you aren't travelling at rush hour and you don't have too much luggage, it's actually not a bad way to bypass the traffic. Otherwise, take a taxi, insist on the meter being on, and take your chances with the traffic jams.

As usual it was hot and the air pollution was awful, but I'm mostly indoors when I'm there, and wear a mask anyway. This time I splurged on the time and booked myself the full three-hour Thai Traditional package at Asia Herb Association, which is a nice, rather upmarket massage chain with several branches in the centre of town. You get one hour each of herbal scrub, Thai massage and herbal ball treatment, which involves being pounced all over with bundles of hot herbs. They supply the disposable knickers and the pyjamas, and the treatment rooms have their own showers, so you can clean off both before and after the herbal scrub. The shower also stops you from smelling too much like a chicken being prepared for roasting, which was rather what I felt like during the scrub. Thai massage is all about feeling better afterwards, rather than while the masseuse is, shall we say, drawing one's attention to all the areas where one's muscles and tendons are tight and need stretching. I'm definitely not one of those iron women who can go to sleep on the mat. But I did feel extraordinarily light and flexible afterwards.


I do remember once at a smaller place, where there were curtained cubicles rather than private rooms, there was a chap in the next cubicle who was having such a relaxing time that my masseuse offered me ear-plugs to block the snores. She had them to hand, so obviously it's not that uncommon...I think he might have been having one of the oil-based massage techniques, which usually hurt a lot less.
The other day, Housekeeper made leftover stew i.e. from all the bits and pieces left over in the freezer and the fridge from previous dishes - frozen scallops, prawns and pork sausage, all braised deliciously together with garlic, carrots and barley. I ate it happily with brown rice and the local spinach-equivalent, stir-fried, but puzzled over the familiarity of the taste. And then I remembered.

In July 1997 I happened to be in Puerto Montt, down in southern Chile, on my way to the island of Chiloe for a short break to get away from the hideous air pollution of Santiago in winter. I was strolling along the shore (one of the many, many nice things about Chile was how safe it was for a lone woman wandering about), and found a curanto restaurant on one of the quays, just in time for lunch.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curanto

They served curanto en olla, in a pot, rather than the classic hole-in-the-ground-lined-with-hot-stones, but properly done with all the layers, and even the pots were pretty exotic - huge black cauldrons keeping warm over the classic tiled charcoal/firewood stoves, each with a different combination of ingredients. I had the tipico - mussels, clams, pork, chicken, chewy flat dumplings and potatoes, all ladled into a big bowl with the fabulous broth on the side, lovely fresh bread and a bowl of pebre (the standard tomato-garlic-herb sauce you get everywhere in Chile). There was dessert too, something involving crispy dough with an orange sauce. I looked up my Chilean cookbook (I try to buy at least one local cookbook whenever I go somewhere new), and it was definitely sopaipillas with chancaca. It was a nice cloudy day, not too chilly, a great day for walking, which I really needed to do after stuffing myself.

Obviously what I've just been eating decades later and on the other side of the world was not the same, beyond the general concept of a surf-and-turf stew, but it was close enough to trigger the memory.

Best of all, Housekeeper made enough for at least two more reasonably sized meals, and the re-heating process will at least approximate the original's hours of simmering. It should be good with toast, too.

We might even try making the sopaipillas.
I was in Singapore for a few days for work, was pleased to see that Changi Airport is completely back to normal (though plane-ticket prices, alas, are not).

1 I managed to get a weekday morning to go to see the newly-opened Bird Paradise

https://www.mandai.com/en/bird-paradise.html.

Wow.

This is the new version of the Bird Park, which was a zoo specialising in birds, as the name indicates, in a different location. Instead of individual cages per species, there are now eight gigantic walk-in aviaries/habitats, and the birds of that region are all there together. It's really rather amazing and the birds seem happy (except one pacing cassowary with its own enclosure; hopefully its mood will improve as the vegetation in its new habitat becomes more jungly). In the "Heart of Africa" aviary the tailor-birds had a couple of dozen nests already constructed, and a flock of African Grey parrots was busy chewing on the nice new rain-shelter next to the artificial cliff built for the black ibises. I saw several different pigeons nesting, small finchy things flying around with bits of grass in their beaks, and a Razor-Billed Curassow nesting in an actual Bird's-Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus).

The overhead netting looks sufficiently strong to deter the (wild) Brahminy Kite I saw circling thoughtfully above, doubtless wondering how to get to the buffet...

The only place where there were individual cages was the section for the endangered species in special breeding programmes. The Philippine Eagles, alas, have not yet produced offspring, and since they are monogamous, the zoo can't just introduce a third bird in the hopes that it takes the fancy of one of the pair. I don't think the site is complete yet. There were no raptors on display, and I saw some construction work still ongoing, so that might be for them.

Visitor numbers are controlled, so it's best to book a time-slot for entry on-line before you go. It's absolutely fabulous. You could also do the regular zoo and the Night Safari (night zoo for nocturnal animals), which are on the same site, on the same day (the Night Safari opens from 6pm to midnight), but I didn't have either the time or the stamina for that.

2 And after dinner one evening, while strolling through the shopping-centre where the restaurant was, I found a pop-up stall from a local company called Zotelier selling lovely cotton clothes in traditional indigo Japanese designs.

https://zoteliersg.com/

Styles are Japanese ie straight, loose cuts, with a somewhat 1920s look to the dresses, very good for the straight body type, and BOTH BLOUSES AND DRESSES HAD POCKETS. I am an M in their styles, which is my size in the West (in Uniqlo I'm an XL, for context). The saleswoman said that they had run out of L at the stall but they'd be available on-line. The website gives sizing measurements anyway. I bought several pieces and will buy more. They'll be very handy for informal wear in hot climates and seasons. And anyone who puts pockets into their dresses and their tops deserves my custom.
I don't often get to thrift/charity shops, since very poor developing countries rarely have the level of widespread affluence required to support this genre of shop. So when I got to Australia recently to visit friends and family, I indulged myself with a few fun days out with aunt, cousin, and old friend from univeresity. The Aussie versions are 'op-shops', short, I understand, for "opportunity shops". The range of charities involved is very wide. The Salvos (Salvation Army) and Vinnies (St Vincent de Paul, a Catholic charity) seem to be among the most widespread, but one can find random op-shops for all manner of causes. We visited one for epilepsy, one for animal protection, and a couple for cancer charities. I love them. They scratch the shopping itch for not too much money, and they have that essential element of uncertainty and excitement. And they're very good for training one's decision-making muscles, since it's "buy or buy not, there is no "think about it and come back tomorrow'".

Since Melbourne is an old, rich city, with several very rich suburbs, pickings are generally quite good. In previous visits, I acquired a beautiful 1950s Autumn Haze mink jacket for A$150 (though getting it cleaned cost a bit more, it was still a lot less than a new one), a gorgeous beaded collar for A$25 and a sweet Clarice Cliff soup-bowl for A$8. The latter was particularly satisfying because this time round I saw a side plate in the same pattern ('Corolla') in a veritable antique shop for A$150... over the years I've also picked up many metres of vintage lace trim, and a lot of exquisite handwork - doilies made from very delicate tatting and fine-thread crochet etc, presumably from people's deceased grandmothers, usually for a couple of dollars at most.

I don't usually buy clothes, but this time round, I was looking for old jeans to chop up and make into my own boro jacket (with sashiko and all). It was surprisingly hard to find good quality denim without stretch, even in the men's section, but with a bit of perseverence I got three large pairs for under A$10 each. And lots of old books, including things I'd read from my childhood (Richard Carpenter's novelisation of "Robin of Sherwood', that sort of thing etc), CDs (because I like to own my music, and if you're living somewhere with dodgy internet connections, streaming is not a viable thing) and DVDs, (ditto). I also got a couple of good leather men's belts, strong enough to hold a waist-bag, and a new-with-tags viscose sundress from a Fijian brand, in a beautiful red stylised leaf print, which will probably be turned into an office hot-weather dress by my dressmaker at some point (it was 2X, and turned out to be more than 2 metres of very nice fabric!).

If I were a young person starting out, I'd get at the very least all my crockery and cutlery from op-shops, and probably a lot of kitchenware too. The Noritake dinner service for six for A$150 was distinctly tempting, even now...
You continue to deserve to be the richest person in Japan.

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/apr/14/how-uniqlos-15-crossbody-bag-conquered-the-world

I saw it on the Uniqlo website and thought that it looked useful, bought two (black and pink) while in transit at Changi Airport (Uniqlo has a shop in Terminal 3, for those of you who may pass through), and will never use anything else while travelling. It's the most amazingly practical thing, one of those things that prompt the thought that I have been an absolute idiot for years not to use something like this. Except that this is of course the apotheosis of its genre.

It looks entirely unassuming, comes in a variety of useful colours, is strong, padded and wipes clean. It is also very cheap for its quality. You can carry all your essentials in it, thus keeping them safely to hand on the plane while asleep or going to the loo, or while gazing intently into the camera at passport control so that it can scan your face or irises or both. Mine held my wallet, passport, two mobile phones, a portable wifi router, hand sanitiser, wet-wipes, hand-cream, facial moisturiser, lip-balm, sunblock, a pen and one of those amazing Japanese shopping bags that fold down to nothing and can themselves open up to carry anything you need to start a new life on the other side of the world. It is basically a small, hand-held Tardis. In a fortnight in Australia, I didn't need to carry anything else while walking around except an umbrella (essential against the Australian sun, even in Hobart and Melbourne).
In most rich Asian countries, public benches divided into individual seats with armrests are not "hostile architecture" aimed at driving away the homeless, as perhaps they are in other countries. They are assistive technology for the elderly, who generally far outnumber the homeless, and quite often need arm support to stand up easily.

So go bugger yourself with the pineapple of your assumptions, youthful and ignorant (pre-COVID) tourist, desperately trying to show off how enlightened you are (I refuse to use 'woke', the grammatical horror of which makes my teeth hurt).
https://www.channelnewsasia.com/news/world/qantas-covid-19-vaccine-international-flights-passengers-13626308

One certainly hopes that vaccination becomes a mandatory requirement to cross an international border. I cannot see international tourism becoming a serious proposition again otherwise. I assume hopefully and I think quite reasonably that the WHO will eventually approve several different vaccines, from the hi-tech sort involving cutting-edge science to the sturdily old-fashioned kind using lots of chickens. So it should not be too difficult a requirement to fulfill, one way or the other.

Anyone who doesn't want to be vaccinated can always stay peacefully at home, holidays or work abroad are nice to have but not essential to life.
Mine is oden, which I first came across on a wet, rainy evening in Kyoto, when my companion and I were starving and had been shopping and sightseeing since lunch (it was only about 6 pm but felt much later). We fell into a tiny little neighbourhood bar run by a nice lady and her elderly mother, with three people in it, and room for five. We ordered shoju (friend) and tea (me), and after a while, noticed that there was a pot of broth simmering on a stove, and plates of random stuff sitting around. So after a bit of pointing, we each got a nice dish of assorted Things, with a ladleful of broth, and it was fabulous.

Specialist oden places have long menus of Things that can go into the broth. This place had the standard home-made Things: stewed white radish, soy-hard-boiled eggs, minced-pork stuffed cabbage rolls and assorted kinds of gluten, konyaku and tofu, which is more than good enough. It's not something you get a lot in standard Japanese restaurants outside Japan; I was told that this is because it's considered home cooking, and cheap, working-class food.

If you do it at home, the broth can be anything: dashi stock, made from either bonito flakes or dried mushroom (for vegetarians, and my own preference since I don't care for bonito flakes), pork-bone soup or chicken soup, even. For Things, I like big chunks of carrot and white radish, minced pork and bamboo dumplings (pork and mushroom dumplings are good too), and some tofu, either soft or the dried sheets, and some chopped spring onion. If you want some carbohydrate, you could add some noodles to soak up the last of the broth. Or crackers, or a rice-ball, or whatever.

Filling, savoury, comforting, healthy and delicious.
There are more of them than there used to be in the seas where I would reasonable expect to be able to swim SOME DAY. Before going anywhere near a beach, therefore, I should order myself a nice, full-body swimsuit, the sort that sensible north-east Asian and Australian ladies wear to protect themselves from sunburn and melanomas, and also, it turns out, jellyfish.

These look quite nice:


https://www.ecostinger.com/women-full-body-uv-swimsuits/

Though I am not certain that it is necessary to go so far as this, if one makes sure to swim at dawn, preferably on a west-facing beach:

https://www.facekini.com/

https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1vdYwrMKTBuNkSne1q6yJoXXaH.jpg

They are pretty, though. I like the cat facekini, and the Chinese opera one is awesome. I'm not sure how the shoulder flap bit would perform, but I suppose it would be OK if one were just paddling about, which is all that I would be doing in the sea anyway. Laps are for the pool.
I've never bought anything from Etsy but I am Very Seriously Tempted by this:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/AisteAnaite?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=198571191&page=2#items

https://www.aisteanaite.com/en/collections

Each outfit can be made to measure, which is good, since I am probably a lot shorter than the average Lithuanian. This designer did inspire the random thought that perhaps the "Clothes that make you feel safe" thing may be a psychological effect more prevalent in cold climates, where wearing a lot of clothes does actually make you physically safer. It then occurred to me that literal safety clothing is mostly only worn in intrinsically hazardous environments. A bullet-proof vest would not actually make me feel safe in any environment where I actually had to wear one (safer, perhaps, but that's not quite the same thing...).

On the other hand, there is a definite sense of psychological comfort when I know that I'm both well and correctly dressed for the occasion and milieu (I can cope if I'm not, but it does require a bit of mental energy).

I spent a few days in Vilnius in winter, for work some years ago. The whole centre of the old city is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the nice thing is that it is still alive - there are shops and offices and flats and restaurants, it's not just a museum and tourist area (I have nothing against tourist areas, they are usually better policed). And Lithuania has lovely linen and very beautiful amber, so the shopping was good too. Food was a bit iffy, local cuisine-wise because of course Lithuanians eat Lithuanian food at home, not when they go out. I think the best meal we had was at an Uzbek restaurant... I did manage to buy some very nice honey-mead at the airport (my housekeeper used some of it to make a truly spectacular tiramisu), and some very tasty tinned venison.
For most soups thickened with milk or cream, which while delicious tend to be a bit of an ordeal for the lactose intolerant, a bit of mashed potato is a really good substitute, and actually makes the soup simultaneously feel both lighter and more substantial.

Ice-cream is usually OK for me, because one or two scoops aren't much, though I avoid the custard-based ones which are usually too sweet as well as too rich. Gelato or sorbets are perfect. I remember my first taste of a Berthillon sorbet on my first visit to Paris long ago (I was sightseeing on the Isle St Louis, and the sheer chutzpah of an ice-cream shop still open in February caught my attention), just a little scoop in a little cone, that was so intensely flavoured that I could taste it for the rest of the afternoon. It was cassis, I remember the flavour too.

The richer, sweeter flavours are nice in winter. In summer, ice-cream is a bit sticky, and I prefer the citrus flavours. Or ginger, ginger is fabulous too.

Thoughts prompted by the fact that my ice-cream/gelato maker is out of order again, so I will have to wait to try the frozen raspberry pulp that I have discovered in my local supermarket.

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